Among the careers cosmetic fat ingredients play an important role. They come in addition to water volume, most commonly in cosmetics before. Historically, they have the proper skin care started. Depending on the region and culture included olive oil, sesame oil, spermaceti and animal fats from different origins to the first skin care basic amenities.
Even today, are "classics" such as beeswax and Woolsacks in many products. With the development of the petrochemical industry, the natural fatty substances by the cheaper refined mineral oils back, but again they experience a renaissance, as the physiological point of view is becoming increasingly important.
Animal fats and vegetable oils
Animal fats and vegetable oils consist largely of triglycerides, namely the trivalent alcohol glycerol with three fatty acids linked is. If today of fatty substances in cosmetics, the speech is the concept of fat in the rule to other lipophilic substances such as wax and mineral oils extended. The difference between a triglyceride-containing oil and a Wax such as jojoba oil is that the fatty acids are not chemically bound with glycerol, but with a so-called fatty alcohols are linked ( "wax esters). Wax esters and triglycerides in common is that they are related because of the chemical structure effortlessly into the natural balance of the skin can integrate. Triglycerides, but under physiological conditions more easily into their individual components split with them, depending on the composition, including essential drugs such as linoleic acid may release. In contrast, wax esters remain intact and complement the natural triglycerides by their skin-protective function.
Synthetic Esters
A special group of synthetic esters, consisting of an alcohol and one or more fatty acids exist. They include, for example, the spreitenden, ie creeping oils such as Isopropyl (IPM), which for reasons of better redistributable of cosmetic products find wide use (for more information on the role of fatty substances in the fatty acids bound see Beauty Forum 4, 54-56 (2003)).
Smooth and protect
Mineral oils and waxes such as paraffin, Vaseline (petrolatum), microcrystalline wax, Erdwachs, hard paraffin exist on the other hand, from hydrocarbon mixtures with different chain length and branching. These substances are absorbed through the skin and does not therefore remain on the surface. This explains their hautglattende particularly pronounced effect. The consequent increase in the occlusive slows the Tran epidermal water loss, which leads to slight Hautquellungen – the principle of many short-term effective anti-wrinkle agent. A key disadvantage to vegetable oils is that the skin’s own regeneration dampen.
Whether a fat is liquid or solid, is mainly determined by the molecular weight and – in natural oils – by type of fatty acid incorporated determined. The unsaturated acid, the more liquid the fat. Also, the branching of the hydrocarbon chains plays a role, as, for example, the oil from the Burzeldrusen of ducks because freighter fatty acids also at low temperature is still fluid, and water does not occlusive.
Fat mostly serve to soften the skin to make ( "emollients"), to streamline and to lend their suppleness. The more fat on the skin are applied, the more reduced (see above) of the Tran epidermal water loss. This reduces the evaporative cooling, which is why particularly cold preparations, such as on the lip care, especially high fat content, which will also be the skin waterproof. This is important for skin protection products generally important because as the penetration of water-soluble contaminants is prevented. The most important aspect, however, should always remain, the skin’s own to promote regeneration.
The application of pure oils come back because of the constant, unpleasant greasiness only rarely. In a very dry and sensitive skin – especially in irritation or atopic dermatitis – but they are still very useful, because by its use on a variety of skin-incriminating aids may be waived.
Oils: natural and pure
As the oils are water-free, they need no preservatives, among others, also emulsifiers, the disturbances in the sensitive layers of the skin barrier can lead naturally missing. The adverse slow feeding into the skin may be a natural barrier additives substances accelerated. The result is modern Oligocene with very good performance characteristics. They are among others in the foot care, with deceits and per anal skin disorders.
Be natural oils used in these preparations can be linoleic acid and valuable ingredients such as photo sterols and vitamins are released. A typical example is the avocado oil. In this case are also available Olextrakte in which those ingredients are added. Pure oils are increasingly used in the spa area and Ayurveda applications in use.
Unlike mineral oils, waxes and vegetable oils can become rancid if they have a higher content of polyunsaturated fatty acids which. This disadvantage is through the addition of vitamin E and C in the form of fat-soluble derivatives largely balanced. Nevertheless, but as Evening primrose oil and wheat germ to the disadvantage of a shorter shelf life. Ultimately, to play in the selection of an oil type and proportion of fatty acids and the content of the above materials accompanying a key role. The art is the best-suited individual oil for individual skin to find.